As the leaves turn brilliant shades of red and gold and the air takes on a crisp chill, it’s time to rediscover the joy of layering. One of the most versatile and charming pieces to add to your autumn/winter wardrobe is the sweater vest. It provides an extra layer of warmth without the bulk of a full sweater. The versatility means you can wear them over button-down shirts, turtlenecks, or even just a simple tee, effortlessly elevating your outfit. It also adds less bulk beneath a blazer or overcoat. Of course, it’s a fashion trend from my youth so it holds a special place in my heart.
The 90s was great for layers, from plaid flannel to knit vests and I loved my sweater vests back in college. Yes, I got to live through the Grunge era as a college student with little to know photographic evidence. Glorious times, but also angst-filled. That’s why the layers felt like comfortable protective armour to face the world, the recession, and student loan debt. Some of the most accessible examples of fashion in the 90s is through film and television.
90s Movies Embodying the Style & Era
If you weren’t alive for it, you can watch movies to get a sense of the 90s vibe. But just know the wardrobe depts at studios had more funds and resources than normal teens and college students, so a Kevin Smith film may better show what we were mostly wearing. But generally, these films felt very relatable to me when they came out (and still):
- Reality Bites
- Empire Records
- Singles
- Boyz n the Hood
- Clerks
- Point Break
- Before Sunrise
- My Own Private Idaho
- Transpotting
- Mall Rats
- Grosse Pointe Blank
- Clueless
- Wayne’s World
- Office Space
- High Fidelity
- Better Off Dead
These last two did not come out in the 90s, but are important culturally. High Fidelity (the film) came out in 2000, it’s based on a book that embodies the mood of the era. Classics. But what this post is really about is how to knit a sweater vest with 90s vibes, so I’ll proceed to yarn choice and pattern suggestions.
Yarn Choice
One of the most enchanting aspects of knitting your own sweater vest is the opportunity to select textures, fibres, colors, and patterns that resonate with your personality. The act of choosing vibrant hues that make you happy can be a form of self-expression, allowing you to infuse your creation with positivity and creativity. Depending on the look you want to achieve, you’ll be seeking out any kind of yarn from 4ply/sock/fingering to bulky.
Cher Horowitz’s Solid Lightweight Vest
Cher has a light weight yarn as well for a smooth result working with her tailored outfits. I wouldn’t be surprised if her she was wearing cashmere, silk blend, or mohair given her sense of quality and high fashion. We all know she wouldn’t be caught dead in a basic acrylic knit. As if! I would recommend a wool/silk yarn to knit something like she would wear. I love Eve Chambers Textiles for hand-dyed perfection and Sirdar wool/cashmere is a solid commercial option. If you want the lightweight feel, but a more organic texture and color, consider Nua Sport from Stolen Stitches. Keep in mind, in order to avoid the under-layer shirt seams/pockets/buttonband showing through, wear a same-colour fitted tank top beneath the sweater vest to smooth things out.
Jake Ryan’s Stranded Colorwork
Jake Ryan is sporting a stranded colorwork, so that’s a lighter weight. They key for stranded colorwork knitting is a wool that is slightly sticky. Because the other strands are carried behind the shown stitches, going with a lighter weight like 2ply, 4ply, sport, or even DK is better than anything bulky. Jamieson & Smith is a classic choice with a multitude of colorways to choose from. KnitPicks Palette is a good choice if you’re based in the States. Nua Sport from Stolen Stitches is a lovely option that isn’t too sheepy. Spring Wools here in Ireland has a nice selection as well. If you can’t face Fair Isle knitting techniques or want to have something you can put in the washing machine, there are some acrylic yarns, like Sirdar Snuggly Crofter DK or King Cole Fjord DK, that are dyed to emulate the look of stranded colorwork.
Monica Geller in a black button-up
Monica is wearing one maybe in Worsted/Aran or Bulky. Nua Worsted from Stolen Stitches would be lovely for this or Zwartbles. Buttons up the front mean you can use it as a layer or a top. For buttons, I love Cork Button Company or Textile Garden. I owned a vest just like this in the 90s and it was a fab layer, but mine was knit in acrylic and didn’t have lasting power. It pilled and fuzzed!
Leland Pierce’s Reality Bites, but this vest doesn’t
Winona’s character is in an embroidered vest, but I had to include it anyway because it’s a fun way to give a stained or plain vest new life. Here is a tutorial on embroidering flowers on a knit sweater vest. Here is a tutorial to embroider a chosen design on any clothing.
Color Choice
The key is to choose a colorway that works with your wardrobe. This can mean to go with a neutral in a reliable hue, like olive, navy, black, brown, or grey. It could also mean to go bold with red or hot pink because my philosophy is that if it goes with nothing then it goes with everything.
For mine, I’ll be using a soft pink and a plum together, shown above. The pink (Bee’s Knees) is from Olann Gra and the plum (Love Anarchy) is from Eve Chambers Textiles. I also have a Lion Brand Hometown USA (Napa Valley Pinot), but I don’t think I’ll wear it as much if it’s 100% acrylic, so I’m choosing the hand-dyed yarns for this project.
When knitting stranded colorwork, keep in mind that if you’re using harmonious or monochromatic colorways, you need to add a dose of poison to make the pattern pop. Here are two articles to help you with selecting: Tiffany Warble via Interweave and Chez Lizzie.
Pattern Suggestions
Knitting is a timeless craft that brings a sense of mindfulness and relaxation. The repetitive rhythm of needles clicking together can be almost meditative, helping you unwind and destress. As you watch your sweater vest take shape, there’s an immense sense of accomplishment and pride that comes with creating something with your own hands. Each piece is imbued with love (and some cursing). But do you know the very best thing about knitting a sweater vest? NO SLEEVE ISLAND. I’m just dropping pattern names and designers linking to Ravelry here. Colorwork ones are at the top of the list.
Golspie by Emma Ducher – adorable with tartan-like colorwork front
The Windowpane Vest by Diana Lam – colorwork windowpane check classic vest
MiZZoni Vest by Lindsay Degen – fun Missoni-inspired colorwork vest/top
Flash Point Top by Lana Jois – colorwork diagonal stripes!
Ellen by Kaffe Fassett – stranded colorwork fun in a classic style
Lady’s Sleeveless Fair Isle Pullover by Susan Crawford – classic stranded colorwork
Marilyn by Galina Carroll – striped colorwork with a retro neckline
Wave Stitch Tank w/Crossover Back 10247 by Sirdar – colorwork with an overlap open back
Martindale by Amanda Jones – stranded colorwork fun in a classic style
Mairead Tank Top by Mary Henderson – stranded colorwork fun in a classic style
#15 Body-hug Tabard Vest by Perry Ellis – Colorwork with an innovative side seaming
Fair Isle Rib Tank Top by Anna Wilkinson – stranded colorwork fun in a classic style
Beneath Waves Vest by Johanna Kunin – adorable with lacy wave stitchwork on front
Breakfast in the Garden by Minimi Knit Design – classic vneck cropped vest
Arequita Tunic by Susanna IC – classic vest/top with lacework section
Calanque by Sandrine C. – similar style to Cher Horowitz’s vest
Boardwalk Top by Irina Anikeeva – Classic lines with beautiful stitchwork design
Hawthorne by Alicia Plummer – Bobbles, mock-turtleneck, and loose fit perfection
Sugar Maple Vest by Evin Bail O’Keeffe – oversized loose fit with buttons on the sides (in Bake Knit Sew)
Paxton Shell by Holli Yeoh – herringbone brickwork stitch pattern
Underlace top by Lily Kate France – adorable with fluttery ruffles at neck & shoulders
Vinnje Slipover by rosa p. – loose slouchy vest/top
Dawa by yamagara – two strands held together for a fluffy, lacy long vest
Geometry by Minimi Knit Design – loose cropped vest/top with textured sides
A Vest by Michaela Drosten – classic crewneck vest/top
Simply the Vest by Juliette Williams – classic vest/top
Summer slipover by Strikkesoffe by Sofie Hågensen – top/vest with ties at sides
Thea Tank by Tamera L. – top/vest with ties at sides
Waterrock by Jennifer Kelley – classic vest/top
Windlass by Kiyomi Burgin – classic vest/top with lacework section
Irene Top by Sari Nordlund – loose vest/top with stitchwork design
Marai by Hanna Maciejewska – vest/top with unique construction and asymmetrical hemline
Havin by Isabell Kraemer – loose vest/top
Woodweave Slipover by kayen-itee – beautiful cable knit classic v-neck vest
Simply Perfect Summer by Hinterm Stein – tank top that doubles as a vest
Eva’s Blouse by Alex Capshaw-Taylor – fitted vest/top
Gullane tank by Ysolda Teague – loose vest/top
Sunwake by Wencke Pertermann – cropped lacy chevron loose vest
Upcycle & Sew (Instead of Knitting)
What if you don’t knit? Or you’re short on time? Upcycle & sew instead of knitting. Look for a sweater or vest in your closet (or at a thrift store) that may have holes in the sleeves or at the hem, so you don’t mind removing that part of the garment. Then use a sewing machine (possibly some backing ribbon or bias tape) to customise your piece. Here are three helpful tutorials on YouTube:
In the world of fashion, few garments are as charming and adaptable as the sweater vest. As autumn and winter approach, it’s the perfect time to embrace the cozy comfort and timeless style of this classic layering piece. Lean into sweater weather, soup season, and layering for comfort with any of these options – or design your own sweater vest!
What is your fave autumn/winter layer?